The Whitehouse Cookbook (1887) written by Mrs. F.L. Gillette

M >> Mrs. F.L. Gillette >> The Whitehouse Cookbook (1887)

Pages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50

FOWLS.

First insert the knife between the leg and the body, and cut to the
bone; then turn the leg back with the fork, and if the fowl is tender
the joint will give away easily. The wing is broken off the same way,
only dividing the joint with the knife, in the direction from 1 to 2.
The four quarters having been removed in this way, take off the
merry-thought and the neck-bones; these last are to be removed by
putting the knife in at figs. 3 and 4, pressing it hard, when they
will break off from the part that sticks to the breast. To separate
the breast from the body of the fowl, cut through the tender ribs
close to the breast, quite down to the tail. Now turn the fowl over,
back upwards; put the knife into the bone midway between the neck and
the rump, and on raising the lower end it will separate readily. Turn
now the rump from you, and take off very neatly the two side bones,
and the fowl is carved. In separating the thigh from the drumstick,
the knife must be inserted exactly at the joint, for if not accurately
hit, some difficulty will be experienced to get them apart; this is
easily acquired by practice. There is no difference in carving roast
and boiled fowls if full grown; but in very young fowls the breast is
usually served whole; the wings and breast are considered the best
parts, but in young ones the legs are the most juicy. In the case of a
capon or large fowl, slices may be cut off at the breast, the same as
carving a pheasant.

[Illustration]

ROAST DUCK.

A young duckling may be carved in the same manner as a fowl, the legs
and wings being taken off first on either side. When the duck is full
size, carve it like a goose; first cutting it in slices from the
breast, beginning close to the wing and proceeding upward towards the
breast bone, as is represented by the lines 1 to 2. An opening may be
made by cutting out a circular slice, as shown by the dotted lines at
number 3.

Some are fond of the feet, and when dressing the duck, these should be
neatly skinned and never removed. Wild duck is highly esteemed by
epicures; it is trussed like a tame duck, and carved in the same
manner, the breast being the choicest part.

PARTRIDGES.

Partridges are generally cleaned and trussed the same way as a
pheasant, but the custom of cooking them with the heads on is going
into disuse somewhat. The usual way of carving them is similar to a
pigeon, dividing it into two equal parts. Another method is to cut it
into three pieces, by severing a wing and leg on either side from the
body, by following the lines 1 to 2, thus making two servings of those
parts, leaving the breast for a third plate. The third method is to
thrust back the body from the legs, and cut through the middle of the
breast, thus making four portions that may be served. Grouse and
prairie-chicken are carved from the breast when they are large, and
quartered or halved when of medium size.

[Illustration]

PHEASANT.

Place your fork firmly in the centre of the breast of this large game
bird and cut deep slices to the bone at figs. 1 and 2; then take off
the leg in the line from 3 and 4, and the wing 3 and 5, severing both
sides the same. In taking off the wings, be careful not to cut too
near the neck; if you do you will hit upon the neck-bone, from which
the wing must be separated. Pass the knife through the line 6, and
under the merry-thought towards the neck, which will detach it. Cut
the other parts as in a fowl. The breast, wings and merry-thought of a
pheasant are the most highly prized, although the legs are considered
very finely flavored. Pheasants are frequently roasted with the head
left on; in that case, when dressing them, bring the head round under
the wing, and fix it on the point of a skewer.

PIGEONS.

A very good way of carving these birds is to insert the knife at fig.
1, and cut both ways to 2 and 3, when each portion may be divided into
two pieces, then served. Pigeons, if not too large, may be cut in
halves, either across or down the middle, cutting them into two equal
parts; if young and small they may be served entirely whole.

Tame pigeons should be cooked as soon as possible after they are
killed, as they very quickly lose their flavor. Wild pigeons, on the
contrary, should hang a day or two in a cool place before they are
dressed. Oranges cut into halves are used as a garnish for dishes of
small birds, such as pigeons, quail, woodcock, squabs, snipe, etc.
These small birds are either served whole or split down the back,
making two servings.

[Illustration]

MACKEREL.

The mackerel is one of the most beautiful of fish, being known by its
silvery whiteness. It sometimes attains to the length of twenty
inches, but usually, when fully grown, is about fourteen or sixteen
inches long, and about two pounds in weight. To carve a baked
mackerel, first remove the head and tail by cutting downward at 1 and
2; then split them down the back, so as to serve each person a part of
each side piece. The roe should be divided in small pieces and served
with each piece of fish. Other whole fish may be carved in the same
manner. The fish is laid upon a little sauce or folded napkin, on a
hot dish, and garnished with parsley.

BOILED SALMON.

This fish is seldom sent to the table whole, being _too_ large for any
ordinary sized family; the middle cut is considered the choicest to
boil. To carve it, first run the knife down and along the upper side
of the fish from 1 to 2, then again on the lower side from 3 to 4.
Serve the thick part, cutting it lengthwise in slices in the direction
of the line from 1 to 2, and the thin part breadthwise, or in the
direction from 5 to 6. A slice of the thick with one of the thin,
where lies the fat, should be served to each guest. Care should be
taken when carving not to break the flakes of the fish, as that
impairs its appearance. The flesh of the salmon is rich and delicious
in flavor. Salmon is in season from the first of February to the end
of August.

SOUPS.

Consomme, or Stock, forms the basis of all meat soups, and also of all
principal sauces. It is, therefore, essential to the success of these
culinary operations to know the most complete and economical method of
extracting from a certain quantity of meat the best possible stock or
broth. Fresh, uncooked beef makes the best stock, with the addition of
cracked bones, as the glutinous matter contained in them renders it
important that they should be boiled with the meat, which adds to the
strength and thickness of the soup. They are composed of an earthy
substance--to which they owe their solidity--of gelatine, and a fatty
fluid, something like marrow. _Two ounces_ of them contain as much
gelatine as _one pound_ of meat; but, in them, this is so encased in
the earthy substance, that boiling water can dissolve only the surface
of the whole bones, but by breaking them they can be dissolved more.
When there is an abundance of it, it causes the stock, when cold, to
become a jelly. The flesh of old animals contains more flavor than the
flesh of young ones. Brown meats contain more flavor than white.

Mutton is too strong in flavor for good stock, while veal, although
quite glutinous, furnishes very little nutriment.

Some cooks use meat that has once been cooked; this renders little
nourishment and destroys the flavor. It might answer for ready soup,
but for stock to keep it is not as good, unless it should be roasted
meats. Those contain higher fragrant properties; so by putting the
remains of roast meats in the stock-pot you obtain a better flavor.

The shin bone is generally used, but the neck or "sticking-piece," as
the butchers call it, contains more of the substance that you want to
extract, makes a stronger and more nutritious soup, than any other
part of the animal. Meats for soup should always be put on to cook in
_cold_ water, in a covered pot, and allowed to simmer slowly for
several hours, in order that the essence of the meat may be drawn out
thoroughly, and should be carefully skimmed to prevent it from
becoming turbid, never allowed to _boil fast_ at any time, and if more
water is needed, use boiling water from the tea-kettle; cold or
lukewarm water spoils the flavor. Never salt it before the meat is
tender (as that hardens and toughens the meat), especially if the meat
is to be eaten. Take off every particle of scum as it rises, and
before the vegetables are put in.

Allow a little less than a quart of water to a pound of meat and bone,
and a teaspoonful of salt. When done, strain through a colander. If
for clear soups, strain again through a hair sieve, or fold a clean
towel in a colander set over an earthen bowl, or any dish large enough
to hold the stock. As stated before, stock is not as good when made
entirely from cooked meats, but in a family where it requires a large
joint roasted every day, the bones, and bits and underdone pieces of
beef, or the bony structure of turkey or chicken that has been left
from carving, bones of roasted poultry, these all assist in imparting
a rich dark color to soup, and would be sufficient, if stewed as
above, to furnish a family, without buying fresh meat for the purpose;
still, with the addition of a little fresh meat it would be more
nutritious. In cold weather you can gather them up for several days
and put them to cook in cold water, and when done, strain, and put
aside until needed.

Soup will be as good the second day as the first if heated to the
boiling point. It should never be left in the pot, but should be
turned into a dish or shallow pan, and set aside to get cold. Never
cover it up, as that will cause it to turn sour very quickly.

Before heating a second time, remove all the fat from the top. If this
be melted in, the flavor of the soup will certainly be spoiled.

Thickened soups require nearly double the seasoning used for thin
soups or broth.

Coloring is used in some brown soups, the chief of which is brown
burnt sugar, which is known as caramel by French cooks.

Pounded spinach leaves give a fine green color to soup. Parsley, or
the green leaves of celery put in soup, will serve instead of spinach.

Pound a large handful of spinach in a mortar, then tie it in a cloth,
and wring out all the juice; put this in the soup you wish to color
green five minutes before taking it up.

Mock turtle, and sometimes veal and lamb soups, should be this color.

Okras gives a green color to soup.

To color soup red, skin six red tomatoes, squeeze out the seeds, and
put them into the soup with the other vegetables--or take the juice
only, as directed for spinach.

For white soups, which are of veal, lamb or chicken, none but white
vegetables are used; rice, pearl barley, vermicelli, or macaroni, for
thickening.

Grated carrot gives a fine amber color to soup; it must be put in as
soon as the soup is free from scum.

Hotel and private-house stock is quite different.

Hotels use meat in such large quantities that there is always more or
less trimmings and bones of meat to add to fresh meats; that makes
very strong stock, which they use in most all soups and gravies and
other made dishes.

The meat from which soup has been made is good to serve cold thus:
Take out all the bones, season with pepper and salt, and catsup, if
liked, then chop it small, tie it in a cloth, and lay it between two
plates, with a weight on the upper one; slice it thin for luncheon or
supper; or make sandwiches of it; or make a hash for breakfast; or
make it into balls, with the addition of a little wheat flour and an
egg, and serve them fried in fat, or boil in the soup.

An agreeable flavor is sometimes imparted to soup by sticking some
cloves into the meat used for making stock; a few slices of onions
fried very brown in butter are nice; also flour browned by simply
putting it into a saucepan over the fire and stirring it constantly
until it is a dark brown.

Clear soups must be perfectly transparent, and thickened soups about
the consistency of cream. When soups and gravies are kept from day to
day in hot weather, they should be warmed up every day, and put into
fresh-scalded pans or tureens, and placed in a cool cellar. In
temperate weather, every other day may be sufficient.

HERBS AND VEGETABLES USED IN SOUPS.

Of vegetables the principal ones are carrots, tomatoes, asparagus,
green peas, okra, macaroni, green corn, beans, rice, vermicelli,
Scotch barley, pearl barley, wheat flour, mushroom, or mushroom
catsup, parsnips, beetroot, turnips, leeks, garlic, shallots and
onions; sliced onions fried with butter and flour until they are
browned, then rubbed through a sieve, are excellent to heighten the
color and flavor of brown sauces and soups. The herbs usually used in
soups are parsley, common thyme, summer savory, knotted marjoram, and
other seasonings, such as bay-leaves, tarragon, allspice, cinnamon,
nutmeg, cloves, mace, black and white pepper, red pepper, lemon peel
and juice, orange peel and juice. The latter imparts a finer flavor
and the acid much milder. These materials, with wine, and the various
catsups, combined in various proportions, are, with other ingredients,
made into almost an endless variety of excellent soups and gravies.
Soups that are intended for the principal part of a meal certainly
ought not to be flavored like sauces, which are only intended to give
relish to some particular dish.

STOCK.

Six pounds of shin of beef, or six pounds of knuckle of veal; any
bones, trimmings of poultry, or fresh meat; one-quarter pound of lean
bacon or ham, two ounces of butter, two large onions, each stuck with
cloves; one turnip, three carrots, one head of celery, two ounces of
salt, one-half teaspoonful of whole pepper, one large blade of mace,
one bunch of savory herbs except sage, four quarts and one-half-pint
of cold water.

Cut up the meat and bacon, or ham, into pieces of about three inches
square; break the bones into small pieces, rub the butter on the
bottom of the stewpan; put in one-half a pint of water, the broken
bones, then meat and all other ingredients. Cover the stewpan, and
place it on a sharp fire, occasionally stirring its contents. When the
bottom of the pan becomes covered with a pale, jelly-like substance,
add the four quarts of cold water, and simmer very gently for five or
six hours. As we have said before, do not let it boil quickly. When
nearly cooked, throw in a tablespoonful of salt to assist the scum to
rise. Remove every particle of scum whilst it is doing, and strain it
through a fine hair sieve; when cool remove all grease. This stock
will keep for many days in cold weather.

Stock is the basis of many of the soups afterwards mentioned, and this
will be found quite strong enough for ordinary purposes. Keep it in
small jars, in a cool place. It makes a good gravy for hash meats;
one tablespoonful of it is sufficient to impart a fine flavor to a
dish of macaroni and various other dishes. Good soups of various kinds
are made from it at short notice; slice off a portion of the jelly,
add water, and whatever vegetables and thickening preferred. It is
best to partly cook the vegetables before adding to the stock, as much
boiling injures the flavoring of the soup. Season and boil a few
moments and serve hot.

[Illustration: FRANCES FOLSOM CLEVELAND.]

WHITE STOCK.

White stock is used in the preparation of white soups, and is made by
boiling six pounds of a knuckle of veal, cut up in small pieces,
poultry trimmings, and four slices of lean ham. Proceed according to
directions given in STOCK, on opposite page.

TO CLARIFY STOCK.

Place the stock in a clean saucepan, set it over a brisk fire. When
boiling, add the white of one egg to each quart of stock, proceeding
as follows: beat the whites of the eggs up well in a little water;
then add a little hot stock; beat to a froth and pour gradually into
the pot; then beat the whole hard and long; allow it to boil up once,
and immediately remove and strain through a thin flannel cloth.

BEEF SOUP.

Select a small shin of beef of moderate size, crack the bone in small
pieces, wash and place it in a kettle to boil, with five or six quarts
of _cold_ water. Let it boil about two hours, or until it begins to
get tender, then season it with a tablespoonful of salt, and a
teaspoonful of pepper; boil it one hour longer, then add to it one
carrot, two turnips, two tablespoonfuls of rice or pearl barley, one
head of celery, and a teaspoonful of summer savory powdered fine; the
vegetables to be minced up in small pieces like dice. After these
ingredients have boiled a quarter of an hour, put in two potatoes cut
up in small pieces, let it boil half an hour longer; take the meat
from the soup, and if intended to be served with it, take out the
bones and lay it closely and neatly on a dish, and garnish with sprigs
of parsley.

Serve made mustard and catsup with it. It is very nice pressed and
eaten cold with mustard and vinegar, or catsup. Four hours are
required for making this soup. Should any remain over the first day,
it may be heated, with the addition of a little boiling water, and
served again. Some fancy a glass of brown sherry added just before
being served. Serve very hot.

VEAL SOUP. (Excellent.)

Put a knuckle of veal into three quarts of cold water, with a small
quantity of salt, and one small tablespoonful of uncooked rice. Boil
slowly, hardly above simmering, four hours, when the liquor should be
reduced to half the usual quantity; remove from the fire. Into the
tureen put the yolk of one egg, and stir well into it a teacupful of
cream, or, in hot weather, new milk; add a piece of butter the size of
a hickory nut; on this strain the soup, boiling hot, stirring all the
time. Just at the last, beat it well for a minute.

SCOTCH MUTTON BROTH.

Six pounds neck of mutton, three quarts water, five carrots, five
turnips, two onions, four tablespoonfuls barley, a little salt. Soak
mutton in water for an hour, cut off scrag, and put it in stewpan with
three quarts of water. As soon as it boils, skim well, and then simmer
for one and one-half hours. Cut best end of mutton into cutlets,
dividing it with two bones in each; take off nearly all fat before you
put it into broth; skim the moment the meat boils, and every ten
minutes afterwards; add carrots, turnips and onions, all cut into two
or three pieces, then put them into soup soon enough to be thoroughly
done; stir in barley; add salt to taste; let all stew together for
three and one-half hours; about one-half hour before sending it to
table, put in little chopped parsley and serve.

Cut the meat off the scrag into small pieces, and send it to table in
the tureen with the soup. The other half of the mutton should be
served on a separate dish, with whole turnips boiled and laid round
it. Many persons are fond of mutton that has been boiled in soup.

You may thicken the soup with rice or barley that has first been
soaked in cold water, or with green peas, or with young corn, cut down
from the cob, or with tomatoes, scalded, peeled and cut into pieces.

GAME SOUP.

Two grouse or partridges, or, if you have neither, use a pair of
rabbits; half a pound of lean ham; two medium-sized onions; one pound
of lean beef; fried bread; butter for frying; pepper, salt and two
stalks of white celery cut into inch lengths; three quarts of water.

Joint your game neatly; cut the ham and onions into small pieces, fry
all in butter to a light brown. Put into a soup-pot with the beef, cut
into strips, add a little pepper. Pour on the water; heat slowly, and
stew gently two hours. Take out the pieces of bird, and cover in a
bowl; cook the soup an hour longer; strain; cool; drop in the celery
and simmer ten minutes. Pour upon fried bread in the tureen.

Venison soup made the same, with the addition of a tablespoonful of
brown flour wet into a paste with cold water, adding a tablespoonful
of catsup, Worcestershire, or other pungent sauce, and a glass of
Madeira or brown sherry.

CONSOMME SOUP.

Take good strong stock (see pages 27 and 30), remove all fat from the
surface, and for each quart of the stock allow the white and shell of
one egg and a tablespoonful of water, well whipped together. Pour this
mixture into a saucepan containing the stock; place it over the fire
and heat the contents gradually, stirring often to prevent the egg
from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan. Allow it to boil gently
until the stock looks perfectly clear under the egg, which will rise
and float upon the surface in the form of a thick white scum. Now
remove it and pour it into a folded towel laid in a colander set over
an earthen bowl, allowing it to run through without moving or
squeezing it. Season with more salt if needed, and quickly serve very
hot. This should be a clear amber color.

JULIENNE SOUP.

Cut carrots and turnips into quarter-inch pieces the shape of dice;
also celery into thin slices. Cover them with boiling water; add a
teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful pepper, and cook until soft.
In another saucepan have two quarts of boiling stock (see pages 27 and
30), to which add the cooked vegetables, the water and more seasoning
if necessary. Serve hot.

In the spring and summer season use asparagus, peas and string
beans--all cut into small uniform thickness.

CREAM OF SPINACH.

Pick, wash and boil enough spinach to measure a pint, when cooked,
chopped and pounded into a soft paste. Put it into a stewpan with four
ounces of fresh butter, a little grated nutmeg, a teaspoonful of salt.
Cook and stir it about ten minutes. Add to this two quarts of strong
stock (see pages 27 and 30); let boil up, then rub it through a
strainer. Set it over the fire again, and, when on the point of
boiling, mix with it a tablespoonful of butter, and a teaspoonful of
granulated sugar.

CHICKEN CREAM SOUP.

An old chicken for soup is much the best. Cut it up into quarters, put
it into a soup kettle with half a pound of corned ham, and an onion;
add four quarts of cold water. Bring slowly to a gentle boil, and keep
this up until the liquid has diminished one-third, and the meat drops
from the bones; then add half a cup of rice. Season with salt, pepper
and a bunch of chopped parsley.

Cook slowly until the rice is tender, then the meat should be taken
out. Now stir in two cups of rich milk thickened with a little flour.
The chicken could be fried in a spoonful of butter and a gravy made,
reserving some of the white part of the meat, chopping it and adding
it to the soup.

PLAIN ECONOMICAL SOUP.

Take a cold roast-beef bone, pieces of beefsteak, the rack of a cold
turkey or chicken. Put them into a pot with three or four quarts of
water, two carrots, three turnips, one onion, a few cloves, pepper and
salt. Boil the whole gently four hours; then strain it through a
colander, mashing the vegetables so that they will all pass through.
Skim off the fat, and return the soup to the pot. Mix one
tablespoonful of flour with two of water, stir it into the soup and
boil the whole ten minutes. Serve this soup with sippits of toast.

Sippits are bits of dry toast cut into a triangular form.

A seasonable dish about the holidays.

[Illustration: EDITH CAREW ROOSEVELT.]

OX-TAIL SOUP.

Two ox-tails, two slices of ham, one ounce of butter, two carrots, two
turnips, three onions, one leek, one head of celery, one bunch of
savory herbs, pepper, a tablespoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of
catsup, one-half glass of port wine, three quarts of water.

Cut up the tails, separating them at the joints; wash them, and put
them in a stewpan with the butter. Cut the vegetables in slices and
add them with the herbs. Put in one-half pint of water, and stir it
over a quick fire till the juices are drawn. Fill up the stewpan with
water, and, when boiling, add the salt. Skim well, and simmer very
gently for four hours, or until the tails are tender. Take them out,
skim and strain the soup, thicken with flour, and flavor with the
catsup and port wine. Put back the tails, simmer for five minutes and
serve.

Another way to make an appetizing ox-tail soup. You should begin to
make it the day before you wish to eat the soup. Take two tails, wash
clean, and put in a kettle with nearly a gallon of cold water; add a
small handful of salt; when the meat is well cooked, take out the
bones. Let this stand in a cool room, covered, and next day, about an
hour and a half before dinner, skim off the crust or cake of fat which
has risen to the top. Add a little onion, carrot, or any vegetables
you choose, chopping them fine first; summer savory may also be added.

CORN SOUP.

Cut the corn from the cob, and boil the cobs in water for at least an
hour, then add the grains, and boil until they are thoroughly done;
put one dozen ears of corn to a gallon of water, which will be reduced
to three quarts by the time the soup is done; then pour on a pint of
new milk, two well-beaten eggs, salt and pepper to your taste;
continue the boiling a while longer, and stir in, to season and
thicken it a little, a tablespoonful of good butter rubbed up with two
tablespoonfuls of flour. Corn soup may also be made nicely with water
in which a pair of grown fowls have been boiled or parboiled, instead
of having plain water for the foundation.