Knots, Splices and Rope Work written by A. Hyatt Verrill
A >>
A. Hyatt Verrill >> Knots, Splices and Rope Work
Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this file
which includes the more than 150 original illustrations.
See 13510-h.htm or 13510-h.zip:
(http://www.gutenberg.net/dirs/1/3/5/1/13510/13510-h/13510-h.htm)
or
(http://www.gutenberg.net/dirs/1/3/5/1/13510/13510-h.zip)
Transcriber's notes:
Corrected spellings
'casualities' to 'casualties'
'Midshipmen's hitch' to 'Midshipman's hitch'
Illustration for Timber Hitch is Fig. 38, not Fig. 32
There is no Fig. 134.
KNOTS, SPLICES AND ROPE WORK
A Practical Treatise
Giving Complete and Simple Directions for Making All the Most Useful
and Ornamental Knots in Common Use, with Chapters on Splicing,
Pointing, Seizing, Serving, etc. Adapted for the use of Travellers,
Campers, Yachtsmen, Boy Scouts, and All Others Having to Use or Handle
Ropes for Any Purpose.
by
A. HYATT VERRILL
Editor Popular Science Dept., "American Boy Magazine."
SECOND REVISED EDITION
Illustrated with 156 Original Cuts Showing How Each Knot, Tie or
Splice is Formed and Its Appearance When Complete.
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER I
CORDAGE
Kinds of Rope. Construction of Rope. Strength of Ropes. Weight of
Ropes. Material Used in Making Ropes.
CHAPTER II
SIMPLE KNOTS AND BENDS
Parts of Rope. Whipping and Seizing Rope. Loops. Cuckolds' Necks.
Clinches. Overhand and Figure-eight Knots. Square and Reef Knots.
Granny Knots. Open-hand and Fishermen's Knots. Ordinary Knots and
Weavers' Knots. Garrick Bends and Hawser Hitches. Half-hitches.
CHAPTER III
TIES AND HITCHES
Larks' Heads. Slippery and Half-hitches. Clove Hitches. Gunners' Knots
and Timber Hitches. Twists, Catspaws, and Blackwall Hitches. Chain
Hitch. Rolling and Magnus Hitches. Studding-sail and Gaff-topsail
Halyard Bends. Roband and Fisherman's Hitches.
CHAPTER IV
NOOSES, LOOPS, AND MOORING KNOTS
Waterman's Knot. Larks' Heads with Nooses. Cleat and Wharf Ties.
Bow-line Knots. Loops and Loop Knots.
CHAPTER V
SHORTENINGS, GROMMETS, AND SELVAGEES
Two-, Three-, and Fivefold Shortenings. Single Plaits and Monkey
Chain. Twist Braids and Braiding Leather. Open Chains. Seized and Bow
Shortenings. Sheepshanks and Dogshanks. Grommets. Selvagee Straps and
Selvagee Boards. Flemish and Artificial Eyes. Throat Seizings. Lashed
Splices.
CHAPTER VI
LASHINGS, SEIZINGS, SPLICES, ETC.
Wedding Knots and Rose Lashings. Deadeye and Loop Lashings.
Belaying-pin Splice. Necklace Ties. Close Bands and End Pointing.
Ending Ropes. Short Splices. Long Splices. Eye and Cut Splices.
CHAPTER VII
FANCY KNOTS AND ROPE WORK
Single Crown Knots. Tucked Crowns. Single Wall Knots. Common and
French Shroud Knots. Double Crown and Double Wall Knots. Crowning Wall
Knots. Double Wall and Crown. Manrope Knots. Topsail-halyard Toggles.
Matthew Walker and Stopper Knots. Turks' Heads and Turks' Caps.
Worming, Parcelling, and Serving. Serving Mallet. Half-hitch Work.
Four-strand and Crown Braids. Rope Buckles and Swivels. Slinging Casks
and Barrels. Rope Belting.
INDEX
INTRODUCTION
The history of ropes and knots is so dim and ancient that really
little is known of their origin. That earliest man used cordage of
some kind and by his ingenuity succeeded in tying the material
together, is indisputable, for the most ancient carvings and
decorations of prehistoric man show knots in several forms. Doubtless
the trailing vines and plants first suggested ropes to human beings;
and it is quite probable that these same vines, in their various
twistings and twinings, gave man his first idea of knots.
Since the earliest times knots have been everywhere interwoven with
human affairs; jugglers have used them in their tricks; they have
become almost a part of many occupations and trades, while in song and
story they have become the symbol of steadfastness and strength.
Few realize the importance that knots and cordage have played in the
world's history, but if it had not been for these simple and every-day
things, which as a rule are given far too little consideration, the
human race could never have developed beyond savages. Indeed, I am not
sure but it would be safe to state that the real difference between
civilized and savage man consists largely in the knowledge of knots
and rope work. No cloth could be woven, no net or seine knitted, no
bow strung and no craft sailed on lake or sea without numerous knots
and proper lines or ropes; and Columbus himself would have been far
more handicapped without knots than without a compass.
History abounds with mention of knots, and in the eighth book of
"Odyssey" Ulysses is represented as securing various articles of
raiment by a rope fastened in a "knot closed with Circean art"; and as
further proof of the prominence the ancients gave to knots the famous
Gordian Knot may be mentioned. Probably no one will ever learn just
how this fabulous knot was tied, and like many modern knots it was
doubtless far easier for Alexander to cut it than to untie it.
The old sorcerers used knots in various ways, and the witches of
Lapland sold sailors so-called "Wind Knots," which were untied by the
sailors when they desired a particular wind. Even modern conjurors and
wizards use knots extensively in their exhibitions and upon the
accuracy and manner in which their knots are tied depends the success
of their tricks.
In heraldry many knots have been used as symbols and badges and many
old Coats of Arms bear intricate and handsome knots, or entwined
ropes, emblazoned upon them.
As to the utility of knots and rope work there can be no question. A
little knowledge of knots has saved many a life in storm and wreck,
and if every one knew how to quickly and securely tie a knot there
would be far fewer casualties in hotel and similar fires. In a
thousand ways and times a knowledge of rope and knots is useful and
many times necessary. Many an accident has occurred through a knot or
splice being improperly formed, and even in tying an ordinary bundle
or "roping" a trunk or box few people tie a knot that is secure and
yet readily undone and quickly made. In a life of travel and adventure
in out-of-the-way places, in yachting or boating, in hunting or
fishing, and even in motoring, to command a number of good knots and
splices is to make life safer, easier, and more enjoyable, aside from
the real pleasure one may find in learning the interesting art of
knot-tying.
Through countless ages the various forms of knots and fastenings for
rope, cable, or cord have been developed; the best kinds being
steadily improved and handed down from generation to generation, while
the poor or inferior fastenings have been discarded by those whose
callings required the use of cordage.
Gradually, too, each profession or trade has adopted the knots best
suited to its requirements, and thus we find the Sailor's Knot; the
Weaver's Knot; Fishermen's knots; Builders' knots; Butchers' knots;
and many others which have taken their names from the use to which
they are especially adapted.
In addition to these useful knots, there are many kinds of ornamental
or fancy knots used in ornamenting the ends of ropes, decorating
shrouds of vessels, railings, and similar objects; while certain
braids or plaits, formed by a series of knots, are widely used aboard
ship and on land.
In many cases ropes or cable must be joined in such a way that they
present a smooth and even surface and for such purposes splices are
used, while knots used merely as temporary fastenings and which must
be readily and quickly tied and untied are commonly known as "bends"
or "hitches." Oddly enough, it is far easier to tie a poor knot than a
good one, and in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred the tyro, when
attempting to join two ropes together, will tie either a "slippery" or
a "jamming" knot and will seldom succeed in making a recognized and
"ship-shape" knot of any sort.
The number of knots, ties, bends, hitches, splices, and shortenings in
use is almost unlimited and they are most confusing and bewildering to
the uninitiated. The most useful and ornamental, as well as the most
reliable, are comparatively few in number, and in reality each knot
learned leads readily to another; in the following pages I have
endeavored to describe them in such a manner that their construction
may be readily understood and mastered.
THE AUTHOR.
JANUARY, 1917.
CHAPTER I
CORDAGE
Before taking up the matter of knots and splices in detail it may be
well to give attention to cordage in general. Cordage, in its broadest
sense, includes all forms and kinds of rope, string, twine, cable,
etc., formed of braided or twisted strands. In making a rope or line
the fibres (_A_, Fig. 1) of hemp, jute, cotton, or other material are
loosely twisted together to form what is technically known as a "yarn"
(_B_, Fig. 1). When two or more yarns are twisted together they form a
"strand" (_C_, Fig. 1). Three or more strands form a rope (_D_, Fig.
1), and three ropes form a cable (_E_, Fig. 1). To form a strand the
yarns are twisted together in the opposite direction from that in
which the original fibres were twisted; to form a rope the strands are
twisted in the opposite direction from the yarns of the strands, and
to form a cable each rope is twisted opposite from the twist of the
strands. In this way the natural tendency for each yarn, strand, or
rope to untwist serves to bind or hold the whole firmly together (Fig.
1).
[Illustration: FIG. 1.--Construction of rope.]
Rope is usually three-stranded and the strands turn from left to right
or "with the sun," while cable is left-handed or twisted "against the
sun" (_E_, Fig. 1). Certain ropes, such as "bolt-rope" and most
cables, are laid around a "core" (_F_, Fig. 2) or central strand and
in many cases are four-stranded (Fig. 2).
[Illustration: FIG. 2.--Bolt-rope.]
The strength of a rope depends largely upon the strength and length of
the fibres from which it is made, but the amount each yarn and strand
is twisted, as well as the method used in bleaching or preparing the
fibres, has much to do with the strength of the finished line.
Roughly, the strength of ropes may be calculated by multiplying the
circumference of the rope in inches by itself and the fifth part of
the product will be the number of tons the rope will sustain. For
example, if the rope is 5 inches in circumference, 5 X 5 = 25,
one-fifth of which is 5, the number of tons that can safely be carried
on a 5-inch rope. To ascertain the weight of ordinary "right hand"
rope, multiply the circumference in inches by itself and multiply, the
result by the length of rope in fathoms and divide the product by
3.75. For example, to find the weight of a 5-inch rope, 50 fathoms in
length: 5 X 5 = 25; 25 x 50 = 1,250; 1,250 / 3.75 = 333-1/3 lbs. These
figures apply to Manila or hemp rope, which is the kind commonly used,
but jute, sisal-flax, grass, and silk are also used considerably.
Cotton rope is seldom used save for small hand-lines, clothes-lines,
twine, etc., while wire rope is largely used nowadays for rigging
vessels, derricks, winches, etc., but as splicing wire rope is
different from the method employed in fibre rope, and as knots have no
place in wire rigging, we will not consider it.
CHAPTER II
SIMPLE KNOTS AND BENDS
For convenience in handling rope and learning the various knots, ties,
and bends, we use the terms "standing part," "bight," and "end" (Fig.
3). The _Standing Part_ is the principal portion or longest part of
the rope; the _Bight_ is the part curved or bent while working or
handling; while the _End_ is that part used in forming the knot or
hitch. Before commencing work the loose ends or strands of a rope
should be "whipped" or "seized" to prevent the rope from unravelling;
and although an expert can readily tie almost any knot, make a splice,
or in fact do pretty nearly anything with a loose-ended rope, yet it
is a wise plan to invariably whip the end of every rope, cable, or
hawser to be handled, while a marline-spike, fid, or pointed stick
will also prove of great help in working rope.
[Illustration: FIG. 3.--Parts of rope.]
To whip or seize a rope-end, take a piece of twine or string and lay
it on the rope an inch or two from the end, pass the twine several
times around the rope, keeping the ends of the twine under the first
few turns to hold it in place; then make a large loop with the free
end of twine; bring it back to the rope and continue winding for three
or four turns around both rope and end of twine; and then finish by
drawing the loop tight by pulling on the free end (Fig. 4).
[Illustration: FIG. 4.--Whipping.]
All knots are begun by "loops" or rings commonly known to mariners as
"Cuckolds' Necks" (Fig. 5). These may be either overhand or underhand,
and when a seizing or fastening of twine is placed around the two
parts where they cross a useful rope ring known as a "clinch" is
formed (Fig. 6). If the loose end of the rope is passed over the
standing part and through the "cuckold's-neck," the simplest of all
knots, known as the "Overhand Knot," is made (Fig. 7). This drawn
tight appears as in Fig. 8, and while so simple this knot is
important, as it is frequently used in fastening the ends of yarns and
strands in splicing, whipping, and seizing. The "Figure-Eight Knot" is
almost as simple as the overhand and is plainly shown in Figs. 9 and
10. Only a step beyond the figure-eight and the overhand knots are the
"Square" and "Reefing" knots (Figs. 11 and 12). The square knot is
probably the most useful and widely used of any common knot and is the
best all-around knot known. It is very strong, never slips or becomes
jammed, and is readily untied. To make a square knot, take the ends of
the rope and pass the left end over and under the right end, then the
right over and under the left. If you once learn the simple formula of
"Left over," "Right over," you will never make a mistake and form the
despised "Granny," a most useless, bothersome, and deceptive makeshift
for any purpose (Fig. 13). The true "Reef Knot" is merely the square
knot with the bight of the left or right end used instead of the end
itself. This enables the knot to be "cast off" more readily than the
regular square knot (_A_, Fig. 12). Neither square nor reef knots,
however, are reliable when tying two ropes of unequal size together,
for under such conditions they will frequently slip and appear as in
Fig. 14, and sooner or later will pull apart. To prevent this the ends
may be tied or seized as shown in Fig. 15. A better way to join two
ropes of unequal diameter is to use the "Open-hand Knot." This knot is
shown in Fig. 16, and is very quickly and easily made; it never slips
or gives, but is rather large and clumsy, and if too great a strain
is put on the rope it is more likely to break at the knot than at any
other spot. The "Fisherman's Knot," shown in Fig. 17, is a good knot
and is formed by two simple overhand knots slipped over each rope, and
when drawn taut appears as in Fig. 18. This is an important and
valuable knot for anglers, as the two lines may be drawn apart by
taking hold of the ends, _A_, _B_, and a third line for a sinker, or
extra hook, may be inserted between them. In joining gut lines the
knot should be left slightly open and the space between wrapped with
silk. This is probably the strongest known method of fastening fine
lines.
[Illustration: FIG. 5.--Cuckolds' necks.]
[Illustration: FIG. 6.--Clinch.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 7 and 8.--Overhand knots.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 9 and 10.--Figure-eight knots.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 11 and 12.--Square knots.]
[Illustration: FIG. 13.--Granny knot.]
[Illustration: FIG. 14.--Slipped square knot.]
[Illustration: FIG. 15.--Square knot with ends seized.]
[Illustration: FIG. 16.--Open-hand knots.]
[Illustration: FIG. 17.--Fisherman's knot (making).]
[Illustration: FIG. 18.--Fisherman's knot (finished).]
The "Ordinary Knot," for fastening heavy ropes, is shown in Fig. 19.
It is made by forming a simple knot and then interlacing the other
rope or "following around," as shown in Fig. 20. This knot is very
strong, will not slip, is easy to make, and does not strain the
fibres of the rope. Moreover, ropes joined with this knot will pay
out, or hang, in a straight line. By whipping the ends to the standing
parts it becomes a neat and handsome knot (Fig. 21). The "Weaver's
Knot" (Fig. 22) is more useful in joining small lines, or twine, than
for rope, and for thread it is without doubt the best knot known. The
ends are crossed as in Fig. 23. The end _A_ is then looped back over
the end _B_, and the end _B_ is slipped through loop _C_ and drawn
tight.
[Illustration: FIG. 19.--Ordinary knot (finished).]
[Illustration: FIG. 20.--Ordinary knot (tying).]
[Illustration: FIG. 21.--Ordinary knot (seized).]
[Illustration: FIG. 22.--Weaver's knot (complete).]
[Illustration: FIG. 23.--Weaver's knot (tying).]
Another useful and handsome knot is illustrated in Fig. 24. This is a
variation of the figure-eight knot, already described, and is used
where there is too much rope, or where a simple knot is desired to
prevent the rope running through an eye, ring, or tackle-block. It is
made by forming a regular figure eight and then "following round" with
the other rope as in Fig. 25. It is then drawn taut and the ends
seized to the standing part if desired.
[Illustration: FIG. 24.--Double figure-eight knot (complete).]
[Illustration: FIG. 25.--Double figure-eight knot (tying).]
Sometimes we have occasion to join two heavy or stiff ropes or
hawsers, and for this purpose the "Garrick Bend" (Fig. 26) is
preeminently the best of all knots. To make this knot, form a bight by
laying the end of a rope on top of and across the standing part. Next
take the end of the other rope and pass it through this bight, first
down, then up, over the cross and down through the bight again, so
that it comes out on the opposite side from the other end, thus
bringing one end on top and the other below, as illustrated in Fig.
27. If the lines are very stiff or heavy the knot may be secured by
seizing the ends to the standing parts. A much simpler and a far
poorer knot is sometimes used in fastening two heavy ropes together.
This is a simple hitch within a loop, as illustrated in Fig. 28, but
while it has the advantage of being quickly and easily tied it is so
inferior to the Garrick bend that I advise all to adopt the latter in
its place.
[Illustration: FIG. 26.--Garrick bend (finished).]
[Illustration: FIG. 27.--Garrick bend (tying).]
[Illustration: FIG. 28.--Simple hitch (hawser).]
When two heavy lines are to be fastened for any considerable time, a
good method is to use the "Half-hitch and Seizing," shown in Fig. 29.
This is a secure and easy method of fastening ropes together and it
allows the rope to be handled more easily, and to pass around a winch
or to be coiled much more readily, than when other knots are used.
[Illustration: FIG. 29.--Half-hitch and seizing.]
CHAPTER III
TIES AND HITCHES
All the knots I have so far described are used mainly for fastening
the two ends of a rope, or of two ropes, together. Of quite a
different class are the knots used in making a rope fast to a
stationary or solid object, and are known as "hitches" or "ties."
One of the easiest of this class to make and one which is very useful
in fastening a boat or other object where it may be necessary to
release it quickly is the "Lark's Head" (Fig. 30). To make this tie,
pass a bight of your rope through the ring, or other object, to which
you are making fast and then pass a marline-spike, a billet of wood,
or any similar object through the sides of the bight and under or
behind the standing part, as shown in _A_, Fig. 30. The end of the
rope may then be laid over and under the standing part and back over
itself. This knot may be instantly released by merely pulling out the
toggle. Almost as quickly made and unfastened is the "Slippery Hitch"
(Fig. 32). To make this, run the end of the rope through the ring or
eye to which it is being fastened, then back over the standing part
and pull a loop, or bight, back through the "cuckold's neck" thus
formed (Fig. 33). To untie, merely pull on the free end. Two
half-hitches, either around a post or timber or around the standing
part of the rope, make an ideal and quickly tied fastening (Figs. 34
and 35). To make these, pass the end around the post, ring, or other
object, then over and around the standing part between the post and
itself, then under and around the standing part and between its own
loop and the first one formed. After a little practice you can tie
this knot almost instantly and by merely throwing a couple of turns
around a post, two half-hitches may be formed instantly. This knot
will hold forever without loosening, and even on a smooth, round stick
or spar it will stand an enormous strain without slipping. A more
secure knot for this same purpose is the "Clove Hitch" (Fig. 36),
sometimes known as the "Builders' Hitch." To make this, pass the end
of rope around the spar or timber, then over itself; over and around
the spar, and pass the end under itself and between rope and spar, as
shown in the illustration. The Clove hitch with ends knotted becomes
the "Gunners' Knot" (Fig. 37). These are among the most valuable and
important of knots and are useful in a thousand and one places. The
Clove hitch will hold fast on a smooth timber and is used extensively
by builders for fastening the stageing to the upright posts. It is
also useful in making a tow-line fast to a wet spar, or timber, and
even on a slimy and slippery spile it will seldom slip. For this
purpose the "Timber Hitch" (Fig. 38) is even better than the Clove
hitch. It is easily made by passing the end of a rope around the spar
or log, round the standing part of the rope and then twist it three or
more times around, under and over itself. If you wish this still more
secure, a single half-hitch may be taken with the line a couple of
feet further along the spar (Fig. 39).
[Illustration: FIG. 30.--Lark's head with toggle (_A_).]
[Illustration: FIG. 31.--Lark's head with toggle (_A_) withdrawn.]
[Illustration: FIG. 32.--Slippery hitch (complete).]
[Illustration: FIG. 33--Slippery hitch (tying).]
[Illustration: FIGS. 34 and 35.--Half-hitches.]
[Illustration: FIG. 36 _A_.--Clove hitch or builder's hitch (tying).]
[Illustration: FIG. 36 _B_.--Clove hitch (complete).]
[Illustration: FIG. 37.--Gunner's knot.]
[Illustration: FIG. 38.--Timber hitch.]
[Illustration: FIG. 39.--Timber hitch and half-hitch.]
It is remarkable what power to grip a twisted rope has, and the "Twist
Knots" shown in Figs. 40 and 41 illustrate two ways of making fast
which are really not knots at all but merely twists. These may be
finished by a simple knot, or a bow-knot, as shown in Fig. 42, but
they are likely to jam under great pressure and are mainly useful in
tying packages, or bundles, with small cord, where the line must be
held taut until the knot is completed. This principle of fastening by
twisted rope is also utilized in the "Catspaw" (Fig. 43), a most
useful knot or "hitch" for hoisting with a hook. To make this, pass
the bight of your rope over the end and standing part, then, with a
bight in each hand, take three twists from you, then bring the two
bights side by side and throw over the hook (Fig. 44).
[Illustration: FIGS. 40 and 41.--"Twists."]
[Illustration: FIG. 42.--Twist with bow.]
[Illustration: FIG. 43.--Catspaw.]
[Illustration: FIG. 44.--Catspaw (tying).]
The "Blackwall Hitch" (Fig. 45) is still simpler and easier to make
and merely consists of a loop, or cuckold's neck, with the end of rope
passed underneath the standing part and across the hook so that as
soon as pressure is exerted the standing part bears on the end and
jams it against the hook.
[Illustration: FIG. 45.--Blackwall hitch.]
The "Chain Hitch" (Fig. 46) is a very strong method of fastening a
line to a timber, or large rope, where one has a rope of sufficient
length, and is used frequently to help haul in a large rope or for
similar purposes. It consists simply of a number of half-hitches taken
at intervals around the object and is sometimes used with a lever or
handspike, as shown in Fig. 47. The "Rolling Hitch" is a modified
Clove hitch and is shown in Fig. 48. The "Magnus Hitch" (Fig. 49) is
a method frequently used on shipboard for holding spars; and the
"Studding-sail Bend" (Fig. 50) is also used for this purpose.
Occasions sometimes arise where a tackle, hook, ring, or another rope
must be fastened to a beam by the same rope being used, and in such
cases the "Roband Hitch" (Fig. 51) comes in very handy. These are all
so simple and easily understood from the figures that no explanation
is necessary. Almost as simple are the "Midshipman's Hitch" (Fig. 52),
the "Fisherman's Hitch" (Fig. 53), and the "Gaff Topsail Halyard
Bend" (Fig. 54). The midshipman's hitch is made by taking a half-hitch
around the standing part and a round turn twice around above it. The
fisherman's hitch is particularly useful in making fast large hawsers;
with the end of a rope take two turns around a spar, or through a
ring; take a half-hitch around the standing part and under all the
turns; then a half-hitch round the standing part only and if desired
seize the end to standing part. The gaff-topsail bend is formed by
passing two turns around the yard and coming up on a third turn over
both the first two turns; over its own part and one turn; then stick
the end under the first turn.